Piety, Prayers as Haj Dawns

Siraj Wahab, Arab News

MAKKAH, 17 January 2005 — With Hajis continuing to stream in from all corners of the globe, as many as three million pilgrims could be performing this year’s Haj which climaxes on Wednesday with the Standing on Mount Arafat, Haj Minister Iyad Madani said.

Madani told reporters here on Saturday night that 1.6 million pilgrims were expected from abroad this year, in addition to half a million from within Saudi Arabia. But hundreds of thousands more could arrive from the region around Makkah at Mount Arafat on Wednesday. “There could be up to three million people on that day,” he said.

With just 24 hours to go before the pilgrims start the trek to the tent city of Mina, one could barely miss the string of jumbo jets landing at King Abdul Aziz International Airport in Jeddah. They fly so low that Jeddawis can read the names of the airlines and see the colorful logos on their tails.

For expats living and working in and around Jeddah, the insignias of their national airlines on the jumbo jets overhead are a special sight. And the pilgrims are pleased to find compatriots among the many expatriate workers who try to make the visitors’ stay as enjoyable as possible. The planes bring a colorful array of pilgrims to the massive arrival tent at the Haj Terminal. The pilgrims arriving at the terminal are transported directly to Makkah, bypassing Jeddah.

The pilgrims are making the most of their stay in the holy cities. They often become emotional, frequently bursting into tears. “All our lives we have been turning in the direction of the Holy Kaaba” — a stone cubic building that was originally built by Prophet Ibrahim and his son, Ismail — “and now we are praying right in front of it,” said 59-year-old Zafarullah Farid, barely controlling his tears. “These are tears of joy.”

Farid, an employee of Radio Pakistan in Karachi, is one of 150,000 Pakistanis who are performing Haj this year. “It has always been a dream to come here and renew my faith,” he said.

“We have read so much about Makkah and Madinah and heard so many things from those who have visited the holy cities and have seen so many pictures of the two holy mosques. Nothing really prepares you for the experience when you first cast a glance at the Holy Kaaba; you are transported into a different world — a world where wordly worries take a backseat,” said Syed Mahmoud Hashmi from India.

Both Farid’s and Hashmi’s wives are accompanying their husbands on the pilgrimage. “We are overwhelmed by the air of spirituality that surrounds this place. Our feelings cannot be described in words. It is heavenly. There are so many people here. We are told there are more than two million pilgrims here in Makkah but what is amazing is that each one is busy reflecting on his/her own life... On his/her own past... And seeking God’s mercy and forgiveness,” they said.

The great number of pilgrims from Pakistan and India is something that is immediately apparent. “There was a time in the 1970s and 1980s when only a handful of people came to Saudi Arabia for Haj,” said Andaleeb Hussain, an Urdu journalist from New Delhi. “The growing number indicates the social and economic progress of South Asian Muslims. They are, by the grace of God, in a better financial position than they once were. Also, there is a greater awareness of religion. Earlier Haj was undertaken only by those who were in the twilight of their lives. Now we see a lot of young people performing Haj,” he pointed out.

This is the second Haj for both Andaleeb and his mother. The first time they were here, things were totally different. “Makkah has grown enormously. There are a lot of facilities available now. In 1995, there were no trees. Now we see a lot of green in and around Makkah,” they said.

Most of the pilgrims busied themselves soon after arrival in exploring Makkah and its Islamic history. “I just visited the cave where Prophet Muhammad received his first Qur’anic verse,” said Muhammad Mustafa from Alexandria. “This place is steeped in history... Every stone has its own story, its own relevance.” His close friend, Dr. Tarek Jamal, who works in a clinic near the Grand Mosque, is playing host to him. “It is a great honor to serve the pilgrims, and if they happen to come from the region for which I have a special affinity, then the pleasure is only enhanced,” said Dr. Tarek, who is actually from Cairo but is married to a woman from Alexandria.

Dr. Tarek is not alone. There are literally hundreds of expatriate workers from Arab, African and South Asian countries working in Makkah and Jeddah and their great pleasure is to help pilgrims in any way they can. They roll out the welcome mat for pilgrims who have their own set of priorities. “They are spiritually charged but physically exhausted,” said Dr. Abdul Hai Gojwari from Srinagar. He works at one of the hospitals run by the Ministry of Health in Makkah. “One look at their relatives, and they get a new bout of energy,” he said.

Dr. Hai knows this from firsthand experience. “I just called on my sister’s in-laws from India, and they felt so happy,” Dr. Hai said. “They hugged me and began to cry.” Waheed Qureshi, his relative from India, nodded in affirmation.

Many pilgrims are pleasantly surprised by the weather.

“We’ve always been told that Saudi Arabia is a desert and the climate is constantly hot, hotter or hottest, but what we’ve been experiencing now is something we cannot believe. Can you imagine a desert as a place where days are pleasant and nights are cold?” asked Asif Nayeem from Gujranwala, Pakistan.

Other myths about Saudi Arabia are also dispelled as visitors find a nation of people proud to share a rich heritage with their visiting Muslim brethren. “There is much to see here, and we’re all delighted,” said Inayatullah, a beaming pilgrim from Galle, Sri Lanka. “My thoughts and prayers are with those who lost everything in the tsunami disaster. My village has been completely destroyed,” he said, controlling his tears. “On the Day of Arafat on Wednesday, I will beseech God to shower his mercy on those who were left high and dry after this terrible tragedy.”

The Standing at Arafat, where Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him) gave his last sermon, falls on the 9th day of Dul Hijjah. Accordingly, Eid Al-Adha which follows Haj, will be celebrated on Thursday, Jan. 20.